My own experimental shoots (DSLR & Mobile)
DSLR:
Holy Grail
This time-lapse was shot with a shutter speed of 1/400's at f7.1 with the ISO at 400.I left the camera shooting at an interval of 3 seconds for about 40 minutes with 468 images having been shot.
I imported all the images into Lightroom classic cc and used the sync button in order to allow for all changes that I make to one image, to be applied to all the images that Imported into the catalog.
I started editing all of the images by increasing the contrast to +44 which increased the contrast between the blue sky and the different clouds that can be seen. I then upped the shadows to +75. This brightened the trees in the foreground so you can see the details a lot more clearly such as the flowers and leaves on the trees. Next, I increased the clarity to +15. This made the smaller details in the sky and the foreground really pop and stand out. I then used the dehaze tool which I se to +2 which really showed more of the clouds a lot more clearer, showing the flow of the them as well. Then next thing that I did was increase the vibrance to +20. This made the entire image more vibrant and a lot more intriguing to look at. I then removed chromatic aberration and enabled the profile corrections.
This experimental shoot was successful because each frame had completely different white balance settings. I believe that if I would have done a small amount of research into shooting this sort of time-lapses, then it would have turned out so much better.
Below is this experimental time-lapse.
London Eye
This time-lapse was shot with a shutter speed of 1/640's at f13 with the ISO at 200.I left the camera shooting at an interval of 3 seconds for about 30 minutes with 393 images having been shot.
I imported all the images into Lightroom classic cc and used the sync button in order to allow for all changes that I make to one image, to be applied to all the images that Imported into the catalog.
I firstly used the spot healing tool to get rid of littles spots at the centre of the image. I then began by increasing the contrast to +30 which made the London Eye and the trees become a lot more contrasting in comparison with the background. Next, I dropped the highlights dow to -64 which decreased the amount of highlights that could be seen in the sky so the sky is now darker than it was originally. I then upped the shadows to +18. I did this to brighten up the areas of shadow. Next, I increased the clarity to +12. When I increased this to much, it made the images look artificial which is what I did not want.
This experimental shoot was successful because there is clear motion of the London Eye and whats makes it even better is the fact that the sun is moving slightly which I did not think I would see. What would make this time-lapse even better would have been to maybe zoom out capturing the public walking in the foreground.
Below is this experimental time-lapse.
Tower Bridge
This time-lapse was shot with a shutter speed of 1/400's at f10 with the ISO at 200.I left the camera shooting at an interval of 4 seconds for about 25 minutes with 427 images having been shot.
I imported all the images into Lightroom classic cc and used the sync button in order to allow for all changes that I make to one image, to be applied to all the images that Imported into the catalog.
I began by making the images straight by using the guide tool. I then changed the x off set to + 1.1, this positioned all the images to the right so that viewers eyes are drawn straight to tower bridge because of rule of thirds. I then, decreased the exposure to -60 because all the images were overexposed so I did this to darken the images. Next, I increased the contrast to +39 in order to make these darker areas really pop from the lighter areas. I then dropped the highlights to -22 which made the sky slightly more blue. I then upped the shadows to +49 which made some of the shadows brighter.
This experimental shoot is successful because I have captured motion in many different areas of the images such as the flags, the river, the cars and the boats. I think that I could make this time-lapse better by using a rotating timer to add a slightly different perspective.
Below is this experimental time-lapse.
Rolling Sky
This time-lapse was shot with a shutter speed of 1 second at f16 with the ISO at 100.
I left the camera shooting at an interval of 2 seconds for about 40 minutes with 427 images having been shot. I also used an ND filter which were 6 stops down.
I did not edit these images because I though that they looked fine as they were and if I did make any edits, it would have ruined the aesthetic of it.
This experimental shoot is not so successful because there was a lot of dark specs on the video and I did not use a lens hood to stop lens flare from the sun. I also think that using two ND filters on top of each other was not such a great idea because it has made the images turn such a odd tint
Below is this experimental time-lapse.
I left the camera shooting at an interval of 2 seconds for about 40 minutes with 427 images having been shot. I also used an ND filter which were 6 stops down.
I did not edit these images because I though that they looked fine as they were and if I did make any edits, it would have ruined the aesthetic of it.
This experimental shoot is not so successful because there was a lot of dark specs on the video and I did not use a lens hood to stop lens flare from the sun. I also think that using two ND filters on top of each other was not such a great idea because it has made the images turn such a odd tint
Below is this experimental time-lapse.
Mobile:
The sole reason I decided to shoot time-lapses on my mobile was because my Nikon D5300 was too heavy to go on top of a rotating timer so the idea of using my mobile came to me. I used an app called frame lapse which allowed me to set the frame interval and video duration. For this specific time-lapse, I set the frame interval to 3 seconds and I set the video duration to infinite so that I had control as to when I wanted to stop shooting. As a first attempt at shooting a time-lapse on my mobile, I think it is a great experiment and is successful because I captured the forming of the clouds and the motion of the clouds rolling from the left to right. Too me I feel that I could have chosen a more interesting foreground.
So it was raining. I really liked the way that the raindrops would run and trickle down the glass of the window, so I thought of the idea of using the rotating timer to add a more intriguing element rather than having a still time-lapse. I shot this with an interval of 1 second to capture those really fact raindrops and I used a infinite video duration. I did not plan on shooting this time-lapse upside down but my phone must have flipped the screen just before I started shooting which has resulted in the time-lapse turning out the way that it has. Others may think that this is unsuccessful and I could have rotated the video but to me I think that having the time-lapse upside down has actually made it a-lot more interesting to watch and it totally changes out perception of it entirely.
Week 1
In the first week I faced no problems other than finding it difficult to find many photographers that shoot time-lapses but in the end I found a few in which I really liked their works.
Week 2
At first, I attempted to use a rotating timer but the weight of my camera (Nikon D5300) was to heavy, which resulted in the rotating timer not turning whatsoever, so I had to scrap that time-lapse entirely and start a new one without it.
I had an issue where when the time-lapse was played back, it played with black bars on each side of the screen. In order to fix this issue, I had to open the time-lapse in Premier Pro to change the ratio to 16:9. However, When it came to exporting the video, it would downgrade the quality of it so I decided that I would keep the black bars on each side of the screen so that quality was not lost.
I decided to delete the completed time-lapse due to the fact that I had one frame in which a fellow classmate got in. So I had to delete the frame and then repeat the entire process for creating a time-lapse in photoshop.
To begin, I faced small issues where I could not get the correct exposure and camera setting for my desired outcome, this took me 25 minutes to get right. I started a time-lapse at first where I used a slow interval between each shot, however this was a problem because although this was great for the motion of the clouds, the motion in the cars was awful as cars were passing to fast over the bridge in the foreground. I fixed this problem by using a much faster interval and it ended up being quite successful with the motion in the foreground and the background.
With this time-lapse, I had an issue where when using the ND filter I could not perfect the exposure and the camera setting to do so. In the end I found the best exposure that I thought was best and so later on I had ability to edit the images in Lightroom so that the images had the most successful exposure and looked how I wanted them to look.
With the experimental time-lapse this week, I faced an issue where because left the white balance on auto, it made the images flicker due to the white balance always trying to adjust. I tried to fix this in Lightroom but because I shot in jpeg, I was limited to what I could do to the images and so from now on, I am going to shoot in RAW for that extra leeway when it comes to editing and getting the best possible time-lapse. The issue that I had previously resulted in me having quite a major problem where every frame was completely different because of the issue with the white balance so this made the it unsuccessful so I have learnt now, to manually set the white balance so that I doesn't adjust automatically.
There was a small problems where when I viewed time-lapse 5 back there was a slight movement which was either the wind just blowing the tripod or the camera or me knocking it accidentally. However, this is not really an issue because I will be cutting the part of the video where this occurs anyway. From now on I am going to stay a fair distance from the camera whilst it is shooting so that this does not occur again.
I decided to delete the completed time-lapse due to the fact that I had one frame in which a fellow classmate got in. So I had to delete the frame and then repeat the entire process for creating a time-lapse in photoshop.
Week 3
To begin, I faced small issues where I could not get the correct exposure and camera setting for my desired outcome, this took me 25 minutes to get right. I started a time-lapse at first where I used a slow interval between each shot, however this was a problem because although this was great for the motion of the clouds, the motion in the cars was awful as cars were passing to fast over the bridge in the foreground. I fixed this problem by using a much faster interval and it ended up being quite successful with the motion in the foreground and the background.
Week 4
With this time-lapse, I had an issue where when using the ND filter I could not perfect the exposure and the camera setting to do so. In the end I found the best exposure that I thought was best and so later on I had ability to edit the images in Lightroom so that the images had the most successful exposure and looked how I wanted them to look.
With the experimental time-lapse this week, I faced an issue where because left the white balance on auto, it made the images flicker due to the white balance always trying to adjust. I tried to fix this in Lightroom but because I shot in jpeg, I was limited to what I could do to the images and so from now on, I am going to shoot in RAW for that extra leeway when it comes to editing and getting the best possible time-lapse. The issue that I had previously resulted in me having quite a major problem where every frame was completely different because of the issue with the white balance so this made the it unsuccessful so I have learnt now, to manually set the white balance so that I doesn't adjust automatically.
Week 5
There was a small problems where when I viewed time-lapse 5 back there was a slight movement which was either the wind just blowing the tripod or the camera or me knocking it accidentally. However, this is not really an issue because I will be cutting the part of the video where this occurs anyway. From now on I am going to stay a fair distance from the camera whilst it is shooting so that this does not occur again.
Week 6
With time-lapse 7, I had an issue where once I had actually exported the time-lapse from Photoshop there was small specs on it which really annoyed me. The only way of fixing this would be to un-sync all the images in Lightroom and then select one image at a time and use the spot healing tool on each image. This would have taken around an hour to do and I did not want to restart the entire process for creating a time-lapse again. So I need to make sure that in the future, that I clean my sensor and lens to make sure that no specs are on there before I start the time-lapse.
Week 7
With the time-lapse that I used the the rotating timer, I faced issues where the rotating timer was not rotating at all. I had to try and find a way to fix this issue and I came to the conclusion of using a gift card to wedge the rotating timer up slightly which worked. The time-lapses that I shot this week were quite short and I should have left them shooting for a longer duration in order to lengthen the videos also this would allow for more motion to be captured.
Week 8
In the eighth week I faced no problems other than finding it difficult to get rid of the black bars at the edges of the time-lapses but I did find out how to get rid of them in the end.
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